• Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Meat Rabbits
menu icon
go to homepage
  • General
  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes
search icon
Homepage link
  • General
  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes
ร—

Is Buying Auction Meat Rabbits a Bad Idea?

Modified: Aug 12, 2025 by Mary Ward ยท This post may contain affiliate links ยท Leave a Comment

Livestock auctions are one place where you might be able to buy meat rabbits. There are a lot of opinions about buying meat rabbits from livestock auctions; most of them are negative.

A New Zealand meat rabbit descended from auction barn stock
Unpopular opinion: It is okay to buy meat rabbits at an auction.

But depending on where you live and how popular meat rabbits are near you, a livestock auction might be one of a limited set of options.

Is it a good option? There are several things to consider.

Jump to:
  • Breeders vs. Grow Outs for Harvesting
  • Consider Your Goals for Your Meat Rabbits
  • Consider Your Local Meat Rabbit Availability
  • Unpopular Opinion: Auction Rabbits Are Not Always Bad
  • But, Buyer Beware
  • See What You Can Learn About Health Checks and the Auction's Reputation
  • Look Rabbits Over as Well as you Can Prior to the Auctionโ€™s Start
  • What to Look for In Healthy Rabbits
  • As With All New Meat Rabbits, Quarantine!
  • Consider Treatment During the Quarantine Phase
  • Keep the Diet Basic In the First Few Weeks!
  • Settle in Before Breeding
  • The Fact Is, There is Always a Risk When Buying Rabbits (Or any other animals)
  • Your Rabbitry, Your Rules

Breeders vs. Grow Outs for Harvesting

To clarify, what we are mostly discussing here is buying meat rabbits that you plan to use as breeding stock. This would be foundational stock to get you going and to help you find meat rabbit breeders.

You might also want to buy meat rabbits at an auction if you need more to harvest or fryers or roasters to process to put meat in your freezer (or to sell).

There are probably more negative opinions about buying breeding meat rabbits from auctions than opinions on buying grown or nearly grown fryers and roasters to process. This is because the intention would usually be to bring those rabbits home and process them in short order.

Or, perhaps youโ€™ll feed them up and grow them out a little longer, depending on size and age.

The point is, people are less concerned with buying rabbits that will be processed quickly, because there is less overall and long-term risk. Youโ€™re not looking for traits and grow out rates, youโ€™re looking for meat. Size and harvest weight can generally be more easily judged at the time of purchase (within reason).

For the purpose of this article, from here on out, we will primarily be talking about buying meat rabbits at auction for the purpose of building breeding stock.

Consider Your Goals for Your Meat Rabbits

Young rabbit grow outs, Champagne d'Argent
Before you decide whether to buy at an auction, think about what you want to do with your rabbits, and whether or not a lack of history will be a roadblock.

With that in mind, the next step would be to put some thought into what your goals are for your rabbitry and your future breeding program.

  • Are you just looking to get started and get meat on your table?
  • Is the breed important to you?
  • Is it important that you know the breed and pedigree of the animals you use as breeders?
  • Do you plan to sell some of your grow outs as future breeding stock to others?
  • If so, are you okay with selling them as generic meat rabbits (crosses or โ€œmeat muttsโ€) or will you need to be able to sell them as a known breed?

These things are worth considering because when you buy meat rabbit breeders at an auction, you wonโ€™t have a confident background on them or their breed in most cases. That doesnโ€™t mean the animals will be bad breeders or bad breeds.

You may even have a pretty good idea of what the breed is. But the accepted wisdom is that if you arenโ€™t assured by a breeder of what the breed is, or if you donโ€™t have pedigree or paperwork, then youโ€™ll need to consider the rabbits as โ€œmeat muttsโ€.

Again, meat mutts can (and often do) make excellent meat rabbits. And the rabbits may actually be purebreds. But itโ€™s about what you can know with the information at hand. Any time a grower does not know (verbally or on paper) what the breed of the rabbit is, it should be considered a cross.

However, even for shows, the criteria is that the rabbit meets the breed standard, so some people will consider a rabbit a certain breed if it meets the standards set for the breed. The most honest answer is that a rabbit of an unconfirmed breed should be considered a cross.

If you would like to sell grow outs or breeding stock to others, this may or may not matter. If your buyers have simpler goals, they will probably care more about good growth and weight than what type of breed the rabbit is. This is something to take into account, though.

Consider Your Local Meat Rabbit Availability

The availability of meat rabbit stock varies considerably by location. If there is not a significant meat rabbit presence within a reasonable distance, finding breeders to get started with can be very difficult.

You can sometimes pick up breeders for sale at rabbit shows, but the timing doesnโ€™t always work out, and again, if people arenโ€™t breeding rabbits near you, the likelihood of there being shows to attend and buy from is lower, too.

In that case, choosing the best stock you can from a livestock auction might be a better (or the only) option.

Here are some things to consider when considering buying meat rabbits from an auction, and some things to think about regarding local breeder availability for meat rabbits:

  • Are there meat rabbit breeders near you?
  • How far are you willing to travel to buy meat rabbit breeders?
  • Is a rabbit transport a workable solution for you?
  • What would the additional cost of transport be?
  • Are you prepared to cull out some animals as you go?
  • Would that set you back too much if one or more animals donโ€™t work out and you need to go back for a replacement?
  • Would it be easier to get older, more mature rabbits at auction than from a breeder? Something that might be at or near breeding age?
  • Are there mature or proven meat rabbit breeders available within a reasonable distance from a breeder?
  • Or, is the only availability 2 or 3-month-old grow outs that you would have to raise for three or four months before you can start breeding? (In which case, the cost of feeding and raising non-producing rabbits needs to be considered.)
  • Are you willing to raise a set of young auction rabbits up to breeding age and select from them? (Younger rabbits are typically at an auction for less negative reasons than adult rabbits, so they are often a safer bet.)
  • Is working through some auction stock and potentially having to select out breeders going to get you started faster? Or might it take just as long (or longer) than growing young grow outs from a breeder?
  • Are the meat rabbit breeders who you could buy from reputable? What is the condition of their farm and animals?
  • What breeds or options are offered nearby?
  • What is your budget?
  • How much are breeders asking for breeding stock near you?

Unpopular Opinion: Auction Rabbits Are Not Always Bad

A good meat cross meat rabbit born from auction sale rabbits
Auction rabbits are typically very affordable, but you may need to do some thorough selection to meet your meat goals (but then again, maybe not!).

Here is where I will offer my opinion and a bit of my experience.

Itโ€™s a less popular opinion, but I think itโ€™s worth voicing. I think itโ€™s worth speaking up so people who are interested in buying from auctions donโ€™t feel as though they have to hide that fact or hang their heads because their meat rabbits came from an auction.

I have purchased and raised meat rabbit breeders from auction stock. To be completely honest, some of the stock did not work out.

  • I had one doe that would not breed (probably overweight or infertile to begin with)
  • I had one doe that developed mucoid enteritis within days and died
  • I had one doe who was on the smaller side, but was an excellent doe that threw big litters, grew big growouts, and produced for over four years
  • I held back two of her does back, and they were healthy, high producers, producing for three years, with one still here and producing, the other retired only for reasons of space and numbers
  • Originally, from the auction, I had six rabbits
  • Two became herd breed bucks and produced for three or more years
  • One was the doe that died from enteritis within the first few days (very good chance this was stress-induced)
  • One was a young doe that died of enteritis after ingesting too many fresh greens it was not accustomed to (mea culpa -- this was my own lack of experience)
  • Two were purchased to process and eat (all was well, and they were a delicious introduction to rabbit at our table)
  • One was the matriarch breeder mentioned above
  • While we incurred some losses, the animals were purchased for less than half the price of breeders from a purebred breeder, and so still produced very well, and even with the losses, the numbers proved out well in my favor

Arenโ€™t auction rabbits always someone elseโ€™s culls?

It will often be said not to buy at an auction because the rabbits there will always be someone elseโ€™s culls. This is not always true.

People send meat rabbits to auction for various reasons (including myself, including, sometimes, high-quality purebred meat rabbits).

Some of the reasons people send meat rabbits to auction may include

  • Culling for breed selection
  • Culling non-performing rabbits or breeders
  • Reducing numbers
  • Moving rabbits that do not have a buyer
  • Overbreeding or overproduction
  • Making room in the rabbit barn for upcoming litters
  • Managing rabbits out of the barn before they are too old for optimal processing
  • Reducing feed bills, even if the price per individual rabbit is lower than normal
  • Generating quick cash to invest back into new rabbits or into rabbitry equipment
  • Selling at a reduced price for clearance purposes without undermining typical sale prices
  • Moving rabbits that the breeder doesnโ€™t have time to process or canโ€™t get an appointment for processing
  • Shutting down the rabbitry, retiring, or getting out of meat rabbits and need to clear out all stock

Not all of this necessarily means the selected-out rabbits are bad. It might just mean there were better rabbits to choose from. It might mean the breeder had different goals than you. And yes, it might mean there is a negative trait they were breeding away from.

It might also have been a sheer response to numbers and manageability. It can very easily mean that the breeder bred up to meet the request of a seller or market, and then the sale fell through or the buyer backed out, so the breeder needed a quick outlet for grow outs.

It might mean they were looking for a fast reduction and/or an injection of cash. Sometimes, breeders will move rabbits out through an auction so that they can continue on their regular breeding schedule, which is in the best benefit of the breeding does.

But, Buyer Beware

A champagne d'argent grow out rabbit in molt
Regardless of whether you buy from an auction, a rabbit show, or a private breeder or barn, you should always exercise "buyer beware".

As with any meat rabbit purchase (or any animal purchase), it is always โ€œbuyer bewareโ€ -- whether at auction or from a breeder directly.

It should be noted that auction animals potentially have more exposure to other rabbits in the barn, which might mean exposure to other parasites, stress, or illnesses. To be fair, this statement would be true of rabbits that come and go into any group situation, too.

This could apply to rabbits that might travel to shows or rabbits that are shipped via rabbit transport. This could also apply to the rabbits living in barns with rabbits that are shown or rabbits that share group transport.

Animal history and breed canโ€™t truly be known at auction

One of the biggest drawbacks to buying rabbits at an auction barn is that you donโ€™t typically get much background on the animal. You may or may not get breed or age information. What you see is what you get.

Which is not to say that what you see is any better or worse than what you can observe from a backyard breeder or even a larger breeding barn.

If you buy from a reputable rabbit breeder, they should be open and honest about the background and information of the animal. But just like the internet, the information you get is only as good as its source. And even when you have it, there are no guarantees with animals. They are individuals, too (this is why even the best breeding programs cull rabbits!).

See What You Can Learn About Health Checks and the Auction's Reputation

Californian rabbits grow outs headed to auction
Even if you can't personally handle a rabbit at an auction or sale, there are some solid health checks you can do by listening and looking.

It is wise to look at the auctionโ€™s website or published policies and information. This might tell you more about what health checks are being performed (or not). Some of this may be based on state law.

While you may not always find the information you are looking for, itโ€™s worth a look, anyway.

You might also ask around on some reputable local livestock groups and inquire as to the health, safety, and reputation of the auction barn. If there is a bad reputation due to multiple bad experiences, someone is sure to be talking about it.

To that, it is worth adding that you should take that with a grain of salt. You will always find someone who dislikes someone or some business or auction. I donโ€™t think there is a business out there that hasnโ€™t been bashed by someone online. Itโ€™s not always deserved, either. If youโ€™re finding one or two complaints, you can probably ignore them or ask people for more information.

If there seems to be a large body of bad reviews and complaints against the auction, then you should consider passing.

As with all things internet, consider the stories and consider the source. And consider those who argue in favor -- or even argue neutrally with nothing to add -- as well.

Look Rabbits Over as Well as you Can Prior to the Auctionโ€™s Start

If the auction has a viewing period prior to the start of the sale -- and many of them often will (though possibly not for the smaller animals like chickens and rabbits) -- make an effort to go early for the viewing.

This will give you the best chance to evaluate whatโ€™s on offer, and make a list of what you might want to bid on -- and what to avoid.

It is likely that a visual inspection only will be allowed. Still, even from looking and listening to a rabbit, you can pick up some of the more important information.

While a private sale might allow you more handling and evaluation, even then, issues can be overlooked or hide themselves. Nothing with livestock ever comes with guarantees.

It should be noted that some breeders, even in a private sale, will not allow you to handle their rabbits, or even to set foot inside their barn. There are good arguments for and against this. It primarily comes down to a matter of potential exposure and biosecurity for the rabbits.

While this may be logical on some levels, and in the best interest of the rabbits, the point is that buying privately does not necessarily guarantee you more inspection or insight.

What to Look for In Healthy Rabbits

Broken colored doe from an auction
This broken colored doe came from an auction, and went on to be the absolute best producer in the rabbitry.

Working within what is allowable at the sale barn, evaluate the rabbits that you are interested in to the best of your ability.

Some of the things to look for are:

  • Healthy-looking coats
  • No apparent scabbing or injury
  • Clear eyes with no sign of infection or runniness
  • Alert rabbits that do not show unreasonable signs of distress
  • No hunching or apparent discomfort
  • Listen for signs of sneezing, coughing, or heavy breathing (definitely give those rabbits a pass!)
  • No, obviously overgrown teeth
  • Good apparent weight and no signs of being underweight or bony
  • Look at the ears for signs of crusting from mites (while mites happen, they should have been seen and treated prior to shipping to the auction barn; continued presence may be a sign of poor care or neglect)
  • Proper posture, no tenderness or favoring of feet or parts of the body
  • No, obviously overgrown teeth or nails
  • Good meatiness and body conformation (to the best of your ability to observe, since you probably wonโ€™t be allowed to pose them)
  • If possible, inspect genitals for signs of sores or illness
  • Observe the tail end for caked manure or signs of loose diarrhea

As With All New Meat Rabbits, Quarantine!

No matter where your rabbits come from, you should always quarantine them for the first 30 days.

  • Keep new rabbits away from existing rabbits
  • If at all possible, house them in a separate room or separate barn
  • If your only option is the same room, make sure it is well ventilated
  • Try to achieve 30 feet of space between new rabbits and current stock
  • Feed, water, and care for new rabbits last
  • Wash your hands or use hand sanitizer before handling your healthy rabbits

If you do not have any rabbits yet, it is wise to still keep the auction rabbits in separate cages, ideally with at least a few feet away from each other.

Donโ€™t assume that their short time together in the auction barn passed whatever there was to be passed between the rabbits. In other words, if one rabbit does fall ill, just because they came from the same auction isnโ€™t a prescription for illness or death in the others; those other rabbits might not have experienced enough prolonged exposure to become infected with an illness or parasite.

With good care and reasonable separation, even if one rabbit has an issue, you may prevent it from being passed to the others.

If any of the group develops signs or symptoms of issues or diseases, follow the quarantine and care tips above.

Consider Treatment During the Quarantine Phase

A happy meat rabbit grooming itself
Some preventative treatments may help prevent issues or infections in your rabbit barn (which can be smart no matter where you buy your rabbits from).

You might also consider some preventive treatments that may support the new rabbitโ€™s immune system or rid the animal of parasites or diseases before symptoms present.

Some treatments to include may be:

  • Treatment for coccidia, such as Corrid or Toltrazuril, or both
  • Dewormer
  • Ivermectin for ear mites and fur mites
  • Mineral or coconut oil for ear mites
  • VetRx for rabbits (immune-supporting essential oil blend)
  • Probiotics in the water
  • Oregano
  • Raspberry leaf
  • Other herbs or supplements to support digestive and immune issues

Keep the Diet Basic In the First Few Weeks!

You probably will not know what the rabbits were being fed prior to their arrival at the auction barn. To support your new rabbits and give them the best chance to acclimate digestively, keep the diet of the new rabbits basic as they adjust to your barn and your feeding program.

The only thing you should be feeding at first is a good quality rabbit pellet, hay, and water (preferably with probiotics in it).

Settle in Before Breeding

Champagne d'argent rabbits eating pellets
Any new rabbit that comes into your rabbit barn should be quarantined.

Before you attempt breeding your new rabbits, run them through the 30-day quarantine period. This will give time for any latent or stress-induced health issues to show, and the rabbits can adjust and settle in in the meantime.

Use this time to slowly adjust the rabbits to your feed program. It will be difficult to know what they were eating before, so a diet of pellets and hay is what you should start with. If you feed other supplements or grow or forage your own feeds, wait to introduce them to it until they seem comfortable and are doing well. And then, introduce new feeds slowly.

As always, probiotic support in the water is a smart idea for rabbits that experience moves or stressful events. Doing this for the first week or two is wise (regardless of where your rabbits come from). Probiotics can be especially important for auction rabbits since it is unlikely you will know what they were being fed before.

The Fact Is, There is Always a Risk When Buying Rabbits (Or any other animals)

The bottom line is, yes. There is a potential for problems to arise if you buy your meat rabbit breeders from an auction barn, and the selection of stock will be limited to what shows up on a given sale day.

However, this is not necessarily much different than what you can obtain locally. You are not guaranteed to have completely healthy rabbits from a private breeder, either. Even a top-notch rabbit can be a quiet carrier of health problems.

Many parasites and conditions are considered endemic in rabbit herds (meaning that all rabbits probably carry them, but live well with them). Stress can bring out hidden or dormant issues in stressed healthy rabbits from any seller.

Hopefully, a private breeder will be a step above, but there are happy endings from auction purchases, too.

An auction is, for some people, the closest and most accessible option. It may be the most affordable, too. Many will say that you โ€œget what you pay forโ€, which can be true, but you may not get what you pay for in all circumstances, either. And sometimes, you get much more than you paid for with auction animals.

The goal of the auction is not to sell poor-quality animals, but to offer a manageable space for livestock sales to occur. That will be a range of animals to be sure, but an auction can turn out to be a good place to buy a decent pair of meat rabbits to breed. Select from there, and you might just get into raising meat rabbits very affordably.

Your Rabbitry, Your Rules

At the end of the day, once again, it is your rabbitry and your rules. Educate yourself. Consider all angles. Consider your acceptable range of risk, and do what is best for you. Meat rabbits are an excellent, affordable, and sustainable meat animal, well worth getting into.

If you are comfortable with the cost and risks of buying meat rabbits at an auction, if that is what gets you started, then do.

Is Buying Auction Meat Rabbits a Bad Idea? pinterest image

More General

  • A farmer is holding a meat rabbit kit.
    A Guide to Fostering Meat Rabbit Kits
  • Weighing a meat rabbit on a scale.
    Why You Should Continue to Weigh Adult Meat Rabbits
  • Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits, 5th Edition: Breeds, Care, Housing by Bob Bennett
    5 Best Books for Raising Meat Rabbits
  • A gray meat rabbit in a cage.
    Rabbitry Goals and Directions

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

Mary Ward rabbit homesteader

Welcome!

I'm a wife, mother, part-time "homesteader", gardener, and backyard meat grower. I've grown many types of animals for meat, but meat rabbits are by far my favorite, and in my opinion, the best meat animals for growing affordable, efficient, homegrown meat.

More about me

Popular

  • An adorable buck in a cage.
    Sourcing Meat Rabbits: Where Can You Buy Meat Rabbits?
  • A farmer holds a young meat rabbit.
    The Basic Cage and Equipment You Need to Start Meat Rabbits
  • An adorable white rabbit in a cage eats hay.
    How to Feed Meat Rabbits: What to Feed and How Much
  • Chicken broth ingredients in a pot.
    How to Make Rabbit Stock or Bone Broth

Recent

  • White Willow Bark for Meat Rabbits
    Willow for Meat Rabbits: How and When to Feed It
  • A Standard Rex Meat Rabbit.
    Standard Rex Meat Rabbit Breed Guide
  • A package of oregano leaves
    10 Reasons Oregano Is a Must-Have Herb for Meat Rabbits
  • A healthy thyme plant.
    16 Reasons to Feed Thyme for Meat Rabbits

Updated

  • A meat rabbit in a cage - Learn the dangers of ammonia in a rabbit barn.
    How and Why Ammonia Smells Are Bad For Meat Rabbits
  • A californian meat rabbit in a cage.
    Californian Meat Rabbit Breed Guide
  • New Zealand Meat Rabbit in a cage
    New Zealand Rabbit Breed Guide
  • A thirsty meat rabbit buck is drinking water.
    How Often Can You Breed a Meat Rabbit Buck?

Recent Comments

  1. Mary Ward on Heat Sterility in Meat Rabbits (Preparing For, and Managing)April 13, 2026

    Often that is enough to minimize or prevent heat sterility. Especially if you don't have heat waves that often. In…

  2. Mint Harvey on Heat Sterility in Meat Rabbits (Preparing For, and Managing)April 13, 2026

    Hi Mary, I was wondering, what kind of low temperature range are we looking at for giving respite to our…

  3. Mary Ward on Rabbit Urine Foliar SprayMarch 19, 2026

    That's great! Happy to help, and always willing to hear what other question or topics people would like to see…

  4. Paul on Rabbit Urine Foliar SprayMarch 19, 2026

    Amazing, the knowledge you share is so valuable, and so topical now our shop bought cow is criminally expensive. I…

  5. Mary Ward on Do You Need to Feed Hay to Meat Rabbits? Should You?March 2, 2026

    Hi Josef, I use cage cups that have a tab that goes over the wire in the cages. Probably similar…

Footer

โ†‘ back to top

About

  • Privacy Policy
  • About Us

Categories

  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • FAQ
  • General
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Copyright ยฉ 2026 Foodie Pro