• Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Meat Rabbits
menu icon
go to homepage
  • General
  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes
search icon
Homepage link
  • General
  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes
ร—

How Do You Decide Which Rabbits to Harvest?

Modified: Jul 24, 2025 by Mary Ward ยท This post may contain affiliate links ยท Leave a Comment

Meat rabbit grow outs
Choosing which meat rabbits to harvest is easy, because the rabbits are bred with a purpose.

A reader asks:

How do you decide which rabbits to harvest for food?

This is a good, functional question with a pretty simple answer.

Jump to:
  • Most Meat Rabbits are for Harvest (Food for the Table!)
  • When and Why I Might Hold a Meat Rabbit Back
  • Always an Eye Toward the Breeding Stock and Rotation
  • Health is Important But Doesnโ€™t Often Come into Play in Harvest and Slaughtering Decisions

Most Meat Rabbits are for Harvest (Food for the Table!)

Ground rabbit meat
The point of raising meat rabbits is meat production, so most animals born here are always destined for harvest.

First off, know this: The vast majority of meat rabbits that are born here are bred with the intention of them being for meat and harvest.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Er4t50c266c

Most litters, most matings, were always destined to be for meat. For almost every rabbit, it is predetermined that they will be harvested.

The reason this is true is that the whole point of my rabbitry is meat production. To date, that production is for private household use and sometimes food for my pets (dogs and cats).

This simply means that almost all of the rabbits that I have born here were always supposed to be for meat. For the most part, the whole litter. There really isnโ€™t a litter that was bred and born here that was ever planned to be anything else.

There are only a few exceptions for promising individual specimens, but overall, the litters are being produced to produce food for the table.

So, for the most part, there isnโ€™t a decision to be made because the use of the rabbits all along was supposed to be for meat.

When and Why I Might Hold a Meat Rabbit Back

The most common reason for holding a meat rabbit back is to hold it as a potential breeder replacement for a retiring buck or doe.

That said, there are times when I keep a rabbit back and do not harvest it for meat (or at least not yet).

Some reasons I might keep or hold back on butchering a rabbit include:

  1. As replacement stock to replace a current doe or buck (breeder)
  2. To offer for sale to other buyers, usually for breeding stock for the buyer (but occasionally, a buyer will buy a live rabbit for meat)
  3. To watch the rabbit develop to a fuller maturity before I make a decision about whether to keep it for a breeder
  4. If the kit comes from one or more parents who are getting older and have, over time, proven to be good producers and I want to keep those genetics in my breeding mix
  5. If a seriously superior rabbit presents itself (proves to be something seriously impressive, above and beyond the norm for what my breeders usually produce). As in, a once-in-a-lifetime or once-in-a-year rabbit prospect.

These are the major reasons why I might not harvest a grow out and why I might hold it back instead. These are about the only reasons I can think of for why I might not butcher a meat rabbit grow out.

Characteristics that might prompt me to keep a rabbit back for sale or breeding

Future champagne d'argent breeding doe
The top characteristic I look for in future breeders is growth rate and weight gain.

If I do decide to keep a rabbit for one of the reasons above, I would take care to select from the best stock in the room. These are some of the characteristics Iโ€™d be looking for:

  • Excellent, consistent rate of weight gain
  • Good muscling
  • Fast growth to slaughter weight (5 pounds by at least 12 weeks, but preferably by 10 weeks)
  • Solid live weight by 16 weeks (7 to 8 pounds live weight, with preference to those over 7 and closer to 8)
  • Good body conformation (although for me, I focus mostly on weight, growth rate, and stocky muscling because I focus mostly on meat production)
  • No issues with teeth
  • Free from health problems
  • No sneezing or obvious respiratory issues
  • No gastrointestinal issues like bouts of stasis or bloat

Given my goals (growing meat for the table), personally, my top selection criteria are growth rate, weight, and feed efficiency (which is largely reflected in the rate of growth).

While I might use show standards as a guide (such as the American Rabbit Breeders Association or ARBA), this is not my top focus because I do not show my rabbits.

However, the ARBA standards, at least for body conformation, do have some bearing on meat production, too, because they look for good skeletal development, leg and body development without defect, and body type that should indicate successful delivery of kits for does. An example of this would be looking for a well-formed, even, wide hind end that is not narrowed or pinched and could cause kits to get stuck in delivery.

I might also put some effort into determining good standard conformation if I am offering breeders for sale because this may be what buyers are looking for, especially if they are showing. And, if you have an interest in a particular breed, it is always a good idea to propagate the best of the best for that breed that you are capable of producing.

As a meat producer I am less concerned about approved colors or hair type and things of that nature.

So, while ARBA and breed standards are not my primary goal, some effort to maintain them is wise as a part of an overall selection process.

Always an Eye Toward the Breeding Stock and Rotation

Holly, an older breeding meat rabbit doe
Always pay attention to the performance and age of your breeders so you can decide if you should hold a breeder back for potential replacement.

I do always keep an eye on my current breeding stock and the age and rotation of my breeders. This doesnโ€™t necessarily have a direct impact on the current grow outs, but it might.

For example, if I know a breeder is getting older and is likely to need replacing within the next six months, I will start looking for grow outs with the potential to replace him or her. These decisions are often made based on the age of the doe or buck and also on performance. If a breeder is starting to have small litters, that is an indication of decline, and I would start thinking about replacing him or her (depending on who I think is likely the problem).

Remember -- Thereโ€™s Almost Always Another Candidate Coming Up

Meat rabbit grow out
You do not need to keep a replacement breeder from every litter; you should always have another litter coming up behind the current stock, so replacements should never be too far away.

Though you should keep in mind the need to eventually replace breeding stock, donโ€™t overthink it, and donโ€™t go overboard.

You donโ€™t need to keep back replacement potentials from every litter. While you do want to keep your breeding programs going, and you should look with some foresight so that the replacements can be at or near breeding age when you need them, you should also be producing litters at least 4 times per year. Which is to sayโ€ฆnew replacement stock is never too far behind.

Health is Important But Doesnโ€™t Often Come into Play in Harvest and Slaughtering Decisions

Ground rabbit meat being packaged
Health issues should be dealt with before it comes to be harvest time.

It should go without saying that any animal that is showing signs of ill health, which might have an impact on it as a food source, is not one that I would harvest. However, that is not all that likely to be a consideration at harvest time.

If a rabbit were to present with health issues, unless it comes at a time that happens to coincide with harvesting, it would have been dealt with already. Either the rabbit would have passed from natural causes, or it would have been culled as a mercy for its own sake.

So, while this should be taken into consideration, practically speaking, it does not become part of my harvest decisions because I wouldnโ€™t wait until harvest time to decide to deal with an animal in poor health, and I wouldn't harvest one that is not recovered from a period of poor health, either.

In the end, deciding who to harvest is not such a hard decision because harvesting is the fate of most of the animals that are born here anyway. Keeping the rest in mind helps you to make smart management decisions, but the issue isnโ€™t as overwhelming as it first might seem to be.

How Do You Decide Which Rabbits to Harvest? pinterest image

More Frequently Asked Questions

  • A healthy meat rabbit is eating in a cage.
    Questions to Ask Yourself Before Getting into Meat Rabbits
  • Adorable meat rabbit in a cage
    Do Things Always Go Wrong with Meat Rabbits?
  • What Temperature do You Bring Water to When Warming Cold Meat Rabbit Kits?
  • Downloadable meat rabbit weight and litter tracker
    Where Can I Find Your Weight Chart And Rabbit Tracker Record?

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

Mary Ward rabbit homesteader

Welcome!

I'm a wife, mother, part-time "homesteader", gardener, and backyard meat grower. I've grown many types of animals for meat, but meat rabbits are by far my favorite, and in my opinion, the best meat animals for growing affordable, efficient, homegrown meat.

More about me

Popular

  • An adorable buck in a cage.
    Sourcing Meat Rabbits: Where Can You Buy Meat Rabbits?
  • A farmer holds a young meat rabbit.
    The Basic Cage and Equipment You Need to Start Meat Rabbits
  • An adorable white rabbit in a cage eats hay.
    How to Feed Meat Rabbits: What to Feed and How Much
  • Chicken broth ingredients in a pot.
    How to Make Rabbit Stock or Bone Broth

Recent

  • White Willow Bark for Meat Rabbits
    Willow for Meat Rabbits: How and When to Feed It
  • A Standard Rex Meat Rabbit.
    Standard Rex Meat Rabbit Breed Guide
  • A package of oregano leaves
    10 Reasons Oregano Is a Must-Have Herb for Meat Rabbits
  • A healthy thyme plant.
    16 Reasons to Feed Thyme for Meat Rabbits

Updated

  • A meat rabbit in a cage - Learn the dangers of ammonia in a rabbit barn.
    How and Why Ammonia Smells Are Bad For Meat Rabbits
  • A californian meat rabbit in a cage.
    Californian Meat Rabbit Breed Guide
  • New Zealand Meat Rabbit in a cage
    New Zealand Rabbit Breed Guide
  • A thirsty meat rabbit buck is drinking water.
    How Often Can You Breed a Meat Rabbit Buck?

Recent Comments

  1. Mary Ward on Heat Sterility in Meat Rabbits (Preparing For, and Managing)April 13, 2026

    Often that is enough to minimize or prevent heat sterility. Especially if you don't have heat waves that often. In…

  2. Mint Harvey on Heat Sterility in Meat Rabbits (Preparing For, and Managing)April 13, 2026

    Hi Mary, I was wondering, what kind of low temperature range are we looking at for giving respite to our…

  3. Mary Ward on Rabbit Urine Foliar SprayMarch 19, 2026

    That's great! Happy to help, and always willing to hear what other question or topics people would like to see…

  4. Paul on Rabbit Urine Foliar SprayMarch 19, 2026

    Amazing, the knowledge you share is so valuable, and so topical now our shop bought cow is criminally expensive. I…

  5. Mary Ward on Do You Need to Feed Hay to Meat Rabbits? Should You?March 2, 2026

    Hi Josef, I use cage cups that have a tab that goes over the wire in the cages. Probably similar…

Footer

โ†‘ back to top

About

  • Privacy Policy
  • About Us

Categories

  • Breeding
  • Breeds
  • Equipment
  • Feeding
  • FAQ
  • General
  • Health
  • Housing
  • Processing
  • Recipes

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Copyright ยฉ 2026 Foodie Pro